Most people who’ve been to Laos will have heard of the Plain of Jars, but fewer will have heard of Phonsavan. With numerous historical sites scattered in its vicinity, Phonsavan is the premier tourist town of Xiangkhouan Province. The town is a prime spot from which to rent a motorbike and explore jar sites 1, 2, and 3, or even the ancient provincial capital of Muang Khoun. While there are certainly some draws in the region for tourists and travellers alike, the long bus journeys from Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng keeps the falang numbers down – and the town’s lack of tourist infrastructure reflects this. While you may have been initially drawn to Phonsavan for the archaeological sites around the town, it is more in the aftermath of the secret war that the town leaves its mark. If you talk to the locals, visit the museums, and venture out into the partially MAG-cleared countryside, you will no doubt feel it too. – Daniel
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